Step 1: Determine the Mounting Configuration
Before opening the closer packaging, determine which mounting configuration is required for your application. The three options are regular arm, parallel arm, and top jamb. Your project’s hardware schedule or door schedule will specify the mounting type. If no mounting type is specified, use the following guidelines.
• Regular arm: Use when the closer can be mounted on the pull (hinge) side of the door. This is the default for most interior commercial doors.
• Parallel arm: Use when the closer must be on the push (stop) side of the door, or when specified for storefront and aluminum-framed doors.
• Top jamb: Use when the door face cannot accommodate a closer body (narrow top rail, full-lite glass, or decorative requirements).
The mounting configuration determines which template sheet and which arm assembly to use. Most commercial closers ship with templates and hardware for all three configurations in one box.
Step 2: Position and Mark the Template
Every commercial door closer includes a paper or cardboard drilling template. The template is a full-scale pattern that shows the exact locations for all mounting holes. Using the template is not optional. Drilling without the template will result in misaligned holes.
• Select the correct template sheet for your mounting configuration (regular arm, parallel arm, or top jamb). Templates are typically printed on a single large sheet with all three configurations marked in different sections.
• Align the template to the top rail of the door and the frame as indicated by the printed alignment marks. Most templates reference the hinge edge of the door and the top of the door as datum points.
• Tape the template in position. Verify that the template is level and properly aligned before marking.
• Using a pencil or scribe, mark all hole locations by pressing through the template at each indicated point. Mark both the door holes (for the closer body) and the frame holes (for the arm bracket or shoe).
• Remove the template and verify that all marks are visible and in the correct positions.
Step 3: Drill Mounting Holes
Using the drill bit sizes specified on the template, drill all marked holes. Templates typically call for two different bit sizes: a smaller pilot hole for sheet metal screws and a larger through-hole for sex bolts or machine screws.
• For the closer body (door face): Drill through the door using the larger bit size specified on the template. These holes will receive sex bolts that pass completely through the door.
• For the arm bracket or shoe (frame): Drill pilot holes using the smaller bit size. These holes typically receive sheet metal screws or lag screws into the frame.
On hollow metal doors, drill carefully to avoid deforming the door face. Use moderate drill speed and steady pressure. On wood doors, pre-drill to prevent splitting at the top rail.
Step 4: Mount the Closer Body
The closer body is the heavy hydraulic unit that generates the closing force. Mount it on the door face (for regular arm and parallel arm configurations) or on the frame head (for top jamb configuration).
• Hold the closer body against the door face with the mounting holes aligned. For regular arm mounting, the closer body is on the pull side. For parallel arm mounting, the closer body is on the push side.
• Insert the sex bolts from the opposite side of the door. Thread the machine screws through the closer body and into the sex bolts.
• Tighten all fasteners evenly. Do not fully tighten one fastener before starting the others. Snug each fastener in a cross pattern, then make a final pass to full torque.
• For top jamb mounting, the closer body is attached to the frame head using screws into the frame. Verify that the frame can support the weight and torque of the closer.
Apply thread-locking compound to fasteners if specified by the closer manufacturer or if the door is subject to heavy traffic and vibration.
Step 5: Attach the Arm Assembly
The arm connects the closer body to the frame (or to the door, in top jamb mounting). Most commercial closers use a two-piece arm: a main arm that attaches to the closer body shaft and a forearm that connects to the frame bracket.
• Install the frame bracket (shoe) on the frame using the pre-drilled holes. Secure with the provided sheet metal screws or through-bolts.
• Attach the main arm to the closer body’s output shaft. The arm typically slides onto a splined or keyed shaft and is secured with a set screw or nut.
• Connect the forearm to the main arm. Most arms have a knuckle joint that allows adjustment of the arm length. Set the arm length so that the forearm is perpendicular to the door face when the door is closed (for regular arm mounting) or so that the arm lies flat and parallel to the door face when closed (for parallel arm mounting).
• Tighten all set screws and connection hardware. Verify that the arm moves freely through the full range of door travel.
Step 6: Adjust Closing Speed Valves
The closer body contains hydraulic valves that control how fast the door closes. Most commercial closers have three independently adjustable valves: sweep (general closing speed), latch (final closing speed), and backcheck (resistance to opening). Some closers also include a delayed action valve. The valve adjustment screws are located on the end or face of the closer body and are turned with a flat-blade screwdriver.
The following table describes each valve and its function. Adjust valves in the order listed, as changes to one valve can affect the behavior of the others.
