Step 1: Measure and Verify the Rough Opening
Before handling the frame, verify three measurements on your rough opening.
• Wall thickness. Must match the frame depth exactly. For this installation, the wall is 4-7/8” (metal studs with 5/8” sheetrock on each side), requiring a 4-7/8” frame.
• Opening width. For a drywall wrap-around frame, add 2 inches to the door width. A 36” door requires a 38” rough opening.
• Opening height. Add 1 inch to the door height. An 84” (7’0”) door requires an 85” rough opening.
Measure in at least two places for both width and height. Metal stud walls can shift during construction. An out-of-spec opening will cause problems throughout the entire installation.
CDF’s ProBuilder displays both nominal and exact dimensions on every quote, helping confirm your rough opening measurements match the frame you are ordering.
Step 2: Identify the Frame Components
A drywall wrap-around frame ships in three pieces: the head (top) and two jambs (hinge jamb and strike jamb). Before assembly, understand these features.
• Compression anchors. Located at the top of each jamb. A flange on the back presses against the wall studs to hold the frame in place.
• Base screw holes. At the bottom of each jamb. Drywall screws go through these holes to anchor the frame to the wall.
• Rabbets (door stops). The head has two rabbets: one sized for 1-3/8” doors and one for 1-3/4” doors. Commercial applications use 1-3/4” doors. The correct rabbet must face the door side, and the head must align with both jambs.
If the rabbets on the head do not align with the rabbets on the jambs, the frame is assembled backwards. This is one of the most common installation mistakes.
CDF ships drywall frame assemblies with all three pieces prepared to the specifications on your order. CDF’s fabrication shop welds frames and pre-punches hinge and strike locations before shipping.
Step 3: Install the Strike Jamb
Begin with the strike jamb (the side without hinges).
• Angle the strike jamb into the rough opening. Feed one leg of the wrap-around behind the drywall on one side first, then press the other leg into place.
• Ensure the compression anchor flange at the top is seated behind the wall surface.
• The jamb should sit flush against the drywall on both sides of the wall.
Step 4: Attach the Head and Hinge Jamb
With the strike jamb in position:
• Slide the head into the top of the strike jamb, aligning the rabbets correctly (1-3/4” rabbet facing the door side).
• Insert the hinge jamb into the other end of the head, matching the rabbet alignment.
• Hammer down the metal tabs at each corner where the head meets the jambs. These tabs lock the three pieces together and create tight corners.
Step 5: Square the Frame with a Spacer Board
A spacer board is one of the most useful tools for getting a consistent install.
• Cut a piece of plywood or a 1x6 board to exactly the door width (36” for a 3’0” door).
• Cut notches into each end so the board hooks into the frame rabbets.
• Place the spacer board at the bottom of the frame opening. Seat each notched end firmly into the rabbet on each jamb.
• The board forces both jambs to remain exactly the door width apart, preventing one side from bowing outward during the rest of the install.
The spacer board does not need to look good. It just needs to be accurate. As long as the distance between the notched ends equals your exact door width, it will work.
Step 6: Level and Plumb the Frame
With the spacer board holding the frame square at the bottom, use magnetic levels to check the frame.
• Header. Place the 2-foot level on the head. Adjust with shims under the jamb bases if needed.
• Hinge jamb. Place the long level (4-6 foot) vertically on the hinge jamb. This is the most critical check. If the hinge jamb is not plumb, the door will not swing correctly. A hinge jamb that is out of plumb causes the door to swing open or closed on its own and may prevent the latch from engaging the strike plate.
• Strike jamb. Check plumb on the strike side. The gap between the door and frame needs to be consistent for proper latching.
Walls are rarely perfectly plumb or square. Your job is to make the frame true even if the wall is not. Use shims under the jamb bases to correct discrepancies.
Step 7: Anchor the Frame
Once the frame is level and square:
• Drive the drywall frame screws through the pre-drilled holes at the base of each jamb using the impact drill with the #2 bit. This anchors the bottom of the frame.
• Tighten the compression anchors at the top of each jamb. These squeeze against the wall structure and secure the upper portion of the frame.
• Re-check plumb and level after anchoring. Driving screws can shift the frame slightly.
Step 8: Final Checks Before Hanging the Door
Before installing the door, verify the following.
• Frame is plumb and level on all three sides
• Corners are tight. No gaps between head and jambs.
• Rabbet alignment is correct. 1-3/4” rabbet consistently on the door side.
• Opening width is consistent. Measure at top, middle, and bottom. All should equal the door width.
• Compression anchors and base screws are secure.
If any measurement is off, correct it now. A grinder can be used to adjust the hinge cups if the hinge jamb needs fine-tuning after the frame is anchored.
