This installation guide is based on CDF Distributors’ recommended method for installing a hollow metal drywall wrap-around frame and wood door into a metal stud wall. The procedure covers a standard 3’0” x 7’0” door opening in a 4-7/8” wall with 5/8” sheetrock on each side.
CDF ships complete door and frame assemblies from its Nashville, Tennessee headquarters. You can configure and order online using CDF’s ProBuilder tool at cdfdistributors.com. For assistance configuring a drywall frame assembly for your project, call (855) 769-9895 or email sales@cdfdoors.com.
What Is a Hollow Metal Drywall Wrap Frame?
A hollow metal drywall wrap frame is a three-piece steel door frame designed to wrap around a finished drywall opening. Unlike masonry frames, which are set into block or concrete walls during construction, drywall wrap frames install after the wall is finished. Each frame consists of a head (top piece) and two jambs (hinge side and strike side) that interlock at the corners. The frame legs wrap around the drywall edges on both sides of the wall, creating a clean finished appearance without exposed fasteners on the face.
Drywall wrap frames are the standard frame type for commercial interior applications in metal stud walls, including offices, hospitals, schools, and retail spaces. They are available in standard and fire-rated configurations. CDF Distributors fabricates drywall wrap frame assemblies in-house at its Nashville, Tennessee facility, welding frames and pre-punching hinge and strike locations before shipping.
Installation Specifications
This guide covers the installation of a standard 3’0” x 7’0” (36” x 84”) hollow metal drywall wrap-around frame into a metal stud wall with 5/8” sheetrock on each side. The wall thickness is 4-7/8” and the required rough opening is 38” wide by 85” tall. The door thickness is 1-3/4”, which is the commercial standard.
At a Glance
Door Size | 3’0” x 7’0” (36” x 84”) |
Frame Type | Drywall wrap-around, hollow metal |
Wall Construction | Metal stud, 5/8” sheetrock each side |
Wall Thickness | 4-7/8” |
Rough Opening | 38” wide x 85” tall (door width + 2”, height + 1”) |
Door Thickness | 1-3/4” (commercial standard) |
Rough Opening Formula for Drywall Wrap Frames
Use the following formula to calculate the rough opening for any drywall wrap-around frame:
- Width = Door Width + 2 inches
- Height = Door Height + 1 inch
- Wall thickness must match the frame depth exactly
For the standard 3’0” x 7’0” (36” x 84”) door covered in this guide, the required rough opening is 38” wide by 85” tall in a 4-7/8” wall.
Installation Time Estimate
How Long Does It Take to Install a Hollow Metal Frame?
An experienced installer can complete a hollow metal drywall wrap frame installation in approximately 30 to 60 minutes under normal conditions. Installation may take longer if the rough opening requires correction, if the wall is significantly out of plumb, or if fire-rated hardware requires additional verification steps.
Tools and Materials
- 2-foot magnetic level: for the header
- 4-6 foot magnetic level: for the jambs
- Shims: for leveling and squaring the frame
- Safety glasses: required PPE
- Tape measure: for verifying rough opening and frame dimensions
- Hammer: for tab connections
- Rubber mallet: for frame adjustment without surface damage
- Impact drill: for driving screws
- #2 Phillips bit: for drywall frame screws
- #3 Phillips bit: for hinge screws (prevents stripping)
- Hinge screws: provided with hinge hardware or per project hardware schedule
- Door silencers: rubber bumpers installed in the strike jamb
- Drywall frame screws: for anchoring the base of each jamb to the wall
- Angle grinder: for adjusting hinge cup depth after install if needed
- Spacer board: a piece of plywood or 1x6 cut to exact door width (36”) with notched ends; holds both jambs square during installation
Step-by-Step Installation
Step 1: Measure and Verify the Rough Opening
Before handling the frame, verify three measurements on your rough opening.
- Wall thickness. Must match the frame depth exactly. For this installation, the wall is 4-7/8” (metal studs with 5/8” sheetrock on each side), requiring a 4-7/8” frame.
- Opening width. For a drywall wrap-around frame, add 2 inches to the door width. A 36” door requires a 38” rough opening.
- Opening height. Add 1 inch to the door height. An 84” (7’0”) door requires an 85” rough opening.
Measure in at least two places for both width and height. Metal stud walls can shift during construction. An out-of-spec opening will cause problems throughout the entire installation.
CDF’s ProBuilder displays both nominal and exact dimensions on every quote, helping confirm your rough opening measurements match the frame you are ordering.
Step 2: Identify the Frame Components
A drywall wrap-around frame ships in three pieces: the head (top) and two jambs (hinge jamb and strike jamb). Before assembly, understand these features.
- Compression anchors. Located at the top of each jamb. A flange on the back presses against the wall studs to hold the frame in place.
- Base screw holes. At the bottom of each jamb. Drywall screws go through these holes to anchor the frame to the wall.
- Rabbets (door stops). The head has two rabbets: one sized for 1-3/8” doors and one for 1-3/4” doors. Commercial applications use 1-3/4” doors. The correct rabbet must face the door side, and the head must align with both jambs.
Labeled diagram showing: head, hinge jamb, strike jamb, rabbets (1-3/8” and 1-3/4”), compression anchors, and base screw holes. This diagram requires CDF approval before inclusion in the production file.
If the rabbets on the head do not align with the rabbets on the jambs, the frame is assembled backwards. This is one of the most common installation mistakes.
CDF ships drywall frame assemblies with all three pieces prepared to the specifications on your order. CDF’s fabrication shop welds frames and pre-punches hinge and strike locations before shipping.
Step 3: Install the Strike Jamb
Begin with the strike jamb (the side without hinges).
- Angle the strike jamb into the rough opening. Feed one leg of the wrap-around behind the drywall on one side first, then press the other leg into place.
- Ensure the compression anchor flange at the top is seated behind the wall surface.
- The jamb should sit flush against the drywall on both sides of the wall.
Step 4: Attach the Head and Hinge Jamb
With the strike jamb in position:
- Slide the head into the top of the strike jamb, aligning the rabbets correctly (1-3/4” rabbet facing the door side).
- Insert the hinge jamb into the other end of the head, matching the rabbet alignment.
- Hammer down the metal tabs at each corner where the head meets the jambs. These tabs lock the three pieces together and create tight corners.
Step 5: Square the Frame with a Spacer Board
A spacer board is one of the most useful tools for getting a consistent install.
- Cut a piece of plywood or a 1x6 board to exactly the door width (36” for a 3’0” door).
- Cut notches into each end so the board hooks into the frame rabbets.
- Place the spacer board at the bottom of the frame opening. Seat each notched end firmly into the rabbet on each jamb.
- The board forces both jambs to remain exactly the door width apart, preventing one side from bowing outward during the rest of the install.
The spacer board does not need to look good. It just needs to be accurate. As long as the distance between the notched ends equals your exact door width, it will work.
Step 6: Level and Plumb the Frame
With the spacer board holding the frame square at the bottom, use magnetic levels to check the frame.
- Header. Place the 2-foot level on the head. Adjust with shims under the jamb bases if needed.
- Hinge jamb. Place the long level (4-6 foot) vertically on the hinge jamb. This is the most critical check. If the hinge jamb is not plumb, the door will not swing correctly. A hinge jamb that is out of plumb causes the door to swing open or closed on its own and may prevent the latch from engaging the strike plate.
- Strike jamb. Check plumb on the strike side. The gap between the door and frame needs to be consistent for proper latching.
Walls are rarely perfectly plumb or square. Your job is to make the frame true even if the wall is not. Use shims under the jamb bases to correct discrepancies.
Step 7: Anchor the Frame
Once the frame is level and square:
- Drive the drywall frame screws through the pre-drilled holes at the base of each jamb using the impact drill with the #2 bit. This anchors the bottom of the frame.
- Tighten the compression anchors at the top of each jamb. These squeeze against the wall structure and secure the upper portion of the frame.
- Re-check plumb and level after anchoring. Driving screws can shift the frame slightly.
Step 8: Final Checks Before Hanging the Door
Before installing the door, verify the following.
- Frame is plumb and level on all three sides
- Corners are tight. No gaps between head and jambs.
- Rabbet alignment is correct. 1-3/4” rabbet consistently on the door side.
- Opening width is consistent. Measure at top, middle, and bottom. All should equal the door width.
- Compression anchors and base screws are secure.
If any measurement is off, correct it now. A grinder can be used to adjust the hinge cups if the hinge jamb needs fine-tuning after the frame is anchored.
Common Hollow Metal Frame Installation Mistakes
Avoid these common errors during hollow metal drywall wrap frame installation:
- Installing the head backwards. If the 1-3/4” rabbet is not facing the door side, the head and jamb rabbets will not align. This is the most frequently reported installation mistake.
- Not verifying wall thickness before ordering. The frame depth must match the wall thickness exactly. A mismatch cannot be corrected during installation.
- Failing to plumb the hinge jamb first. The hinge jamb is the most critical alignment point. An out-of-plumb hinge jamb causes the door to swing on its own and prevents proper latching.
- Skipping the spacer board. Without a spacer board, one or both jambs can bow outward during anchoring, resulting in an inconsistent gap between the door and frame.
- Anchoring before checking square. Driving screws before verifying plumb and level can lock the frame in an incorrect position that is difficult to correct.
- Incorrect rough opening dimensions. A rough opening that is too narrow prevents frame insertion. A rough opening that is too wide leaves excessive gaps that compromise the compression anchor function.
A Note on Fire-Rated Frames
The installation method above applies to both standard and fire-rated drywall frames. If your project requires a fire-rated assembly, the frame, door, and hardware must all carry matching fire labels. CDF rivets fire labels (FL20F through FL90F for frames, FL20D through FL90D for doors) onto every fire-rated assembly before shipping. Drywall frames can be fire-rated up to 90 minutes. Assemblies requiring a 3-hour rating must use masonry frames.
Verify all code requirements with project specifications and the Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ).
Industry Standards Referenced
- Commercial door thickness: 1-3/4” (standard for commercial interior applications)
- Maximum drywall frame fire rating: 90 minutes
- Assemblies requiring ratings above 90 minutes must use masonry frames
- Fire-rated assemblies require matching labels on door, frame, and all hardware
- Rough opening tolerance: door width + 2” by door height + 1” for drywall wrap frames
Configure Your Frame Assembly
CDF’s ProBuilder tool allows contractors and facility managers to configure drywall frame assemblies online. During configuration in ProBuilder, door, frame, and hardware selections are structured as a complete assembly. ProBuilder displays compatible options and provides instant pricing.
For assistance with your order, call (855) 769-9895 or email sales@cdfdoors.com. CDF’s sales team is available Monday through Friday, 7:30 AM to 4:30 PM CT.
Frequently Asked Questions
What size rough opening do I need for a hollow metal drywall frame?
For a drywall wrap-around frame, add 2 inches to the door width and 1 inch to the door height. A standard 3’0” x 7’0” (36” x 84”) door requires a rough opening of 38” wide by 85” tall. The wall thickness must match the frame depth. CDF’s ProBuilder calculates rough openings automatically for every frame configuration.
What is the difference between the two rabbets on a hollow metal frame?
Hollow metal drywall frames have two rabbets on the head. One is sized for 1-3/8” doors and one for 1-3/4” doors. In commercial applications, 1-3/4” doors are standard. The 1-3/4” rabbet must face the door side consistently across the head and both jambs.
Do I need a spacer board to install a hollow metal frame?
A spacer board is not required, but CDF’s installation team recommends it. It holds both jambs at the exact door width during installation, preventing one side from bowing outward. Cut a piece of plywood or a 1x6 to the exact door width with notches on each end to hook into the frame rabbets.
What drill bits do I need for a hollow metal frame installation?
You need a #2 Phillips bit for drywall frame screws and a #3 Phillips bit for hinge screws. Using a #2 bit on hinge screws risks stripping the screw heads. CDF ships hinge screws with every frame order.
Can a drywall wrap-around frame be fire-rated?
Yes. Drywall frames can be fire-rated up to 90 minutes. All components in the assembly (door, frame, hardware, glass, louvers) must carry matching fire labels. CDF rivets fire labels onto every fire-rated assembly before shipping. Assemblies requiring a 3-hour rating must use masonry frames, not drywall frames. Verify requirements with your project’s design professional and the AHJ.
How long does it take to install a hollow metal drywall frame?
An experienced installer can typically complete the frame installation in 30 to 60 minutes. Installation time increases if the rough opening needs correction or if the wall is significantly out of plumb.
What are common mistakes when installing a hollow metal frame?
The most common mistakes are installing the head backwards (rabbet misalignment), not verifying wall thickness before ordering, failing to plumb the hinge jamb first, skipping the spacer board, anchoring before checking square, and using an incorrect rough opening. Each of these errors can result in a door that does not swing, latch, or close properly.
About This Guide
This installation procedure reflects CDF Distributors’ standard fabrication specifications and field-tested installation method used by commercial contractors nationwide. The full installation video is available on CDF’s YouTube channel at youtube.com/@CDF_Distributors.
For questions about frame installation or to order a drywall frame assembly, contact CDF at (855) 769-9895 or sales@cdfdoors.com. Configure your assembly online at cdfdistributors.com using ProBuilder.
